Knots

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Assortment of knots

Knots have thousands of potential uses, both practical and decorative. Knots can be tied using rope, string, or any other type of cordage. Practical knots include hitches, bends, loops, splices, and lashings. Hitches secure a rope to a pole or other stationary object. Bends are used to join two ropes. Loops create a loop. Splices create a joint between ropes or parts of the same rope, typically by untwisting and interweaving strands. Lashings are used to connect two or more poles together and are particularly useful for structure construction.

Terminology

Running End [1]

The running end is the end of the rope that is used to tie a knot. This end is also called the working end.

Standing Part [1]

The standing part refers to all of a rope that is not the running end.

Overhand Loop [1]

An overhand loop is a loop in which the running end of the rope is on top of the standing part.

Underhand Loop [1]

An underhand loop is a loop in which the running end of the rope is under the standing part.

Bight [1]

A bight is a U-shaped section of rope formed by doubling-back the rope against itself. The running end does not cross the standing part.

Turn [1]

A turn is formed by wrapping a rope around a pole once. The running end will be in the opposite direction of the standing part after the turn is formed

Roundturn [1]

A roundturn is formed by wrapping a rope around a pole one and a half times. The running end will exit the roundturn towards the standing part.

Lashing Terminology

Pole [1]

A pole is the structural component of constructions made with lashings. These are typically wooden and usually small trees or straight branches, but any material can be used.

Spar [1]

A large, heavy pole

Wrap [1]

A turn made around two or more poles to hold the poles tightly together. Most lashings require three or more wraps made tightly side by side.

Frap [1]

A frap goes around the wraps to pull them together.

Knots

Hitches

Hitches are used to secure a rope to objects, including but not limited to poles, tent stakes, trees, in some cases people, or through a hole in an object like a grommet on a tarp. The term connection point is used in the following instructions instead of pole, hole, object, etc.

Half-Hitch [1]

Completed half-hitch knot.

The half-hitch is very easy to tie, but is not particularly strong or reliable. However, it is an important step in the tying of many other knots.

  1. Pass the running end of the rope around the connection point to form a bight.
  2. Bring the running end under the standing part forming an underhand loop.
  3. Bring the running end up and over the standing part and through the loop.
  4. Tighten the half-hitch and slide it against the connection point.

Two Half-Hitches [1]

Illustration of tying two half hitches. The first image depicts step 1. The second image depicts step 3. The third image depicts the finished knot.

The two half-hitches knot is a simple, relatively reliable hitch and is a great general purpose option if easy adjustability or excess strength are not required.

  1. Pass the running end of the rope around the connection point to form a bight.
  2. Bring the running end under the standing part forming an underhand loop.
  3. Bring the running end up and over the standing part and through the loop. This makes a half-hitch.
  4. Make another underhand loop (away from the connection point from the first half-hitch) and again wrap the running end up and through the new loop forming the second half hitch. Be sure both wraps around the standing part are in the same direction.
  5. Tighten the knot and slide it against the connection point.

Taught-Line Hitch [1]

The taught-line hitch is also useful for tying a rope to an object, but creates an adjustable loop that can be used to tighten the line. This is particularly useful for tents or flys.

  1. Pass the running end of the rope around the connection point and under the standing part to form an underhand loop.
  2. Bring the running end over and around the standing part and through the loop.
  3. Go around the standing part again inside the loop towards the connection point.
  4. Bring the running end away from the connection point and form a new underhand loop outside of the original loop.
  5. Bring the running end up, around, and through the new underhand loop to tie another half-hitch. Be sure to wrap in the same direction for all of the loops.
  6. Tighten the knot around the rope and work any slack out of it.
  7. Slide the taut-line hitch to tighten or loosen the line.

Bowline [1]

Bowline knot tying.

The bowline knot forms a reliable loop that will not slip. The bowline knot is technically a loop knot, but it can be used as a strong reliable hitch when strength is needed. The bowline knot tied around the waist can be used in rescue situations in a pinch.

  1. Form a bight around (or large enough to fit around) the connection point.
  2. Make an overhand loop in the standing part of the rope.
  3. Pass the running end up through the loop.
  4. Pass the running end behind and then around the standing part.
  5. Bring the running end back through the loop. The running end should exit the knot toward the inside of the loop, and parallel to where it entered the loop.
  6. Tighten by pulling the standing part away while holding the bight and running end.

Clove Hitch [1]

Clove hitch knot

The clove hitch is frequently used along with lashings.

  1. Make a turn around the connection point.
  2. Make the first half of a second turn around the connection point, crossing over the first turn to form the shape of an X. (The running end will be next to the standing part, but on the opposite side of the connection point after this half turn)
  3. Finish the second turn, but tuck the running end under the X. The ends of the rope should come out between the legs of the X.
  4. Pull the ends of the rope to tighten the hitch.

Timber Hitch [1]

The timber hitch is typically used to drag logs and is also used to start diagonal lashings. The timber hitch will stay secure as long as there is tension on the rope, but it will loosen and can be removed easily as soon as the tension is removed.

  1. Pass the running end of the rope around the connection point.
  2. Loop the running end around the standing part.
  3. Twist the running end around the loop around the connection point at least 3 times (use more loops depending on the strength needed).
  4. Pull the slack out of the rope and tighten the knot against the connection point.

Bends

Bend knots are used to tie ropes together. These can be different parts of the same rope or to connect multiple ropes.

Sheet bend knot

Sheet Bend [1]

The sheet bend is a useful general knot for tying two different ropes together. It is similar to the bowline but consists of two separate ropes. The sheet bend can be used to connect ropes of the same or different diameter. In the following instructions, rope 1 should be the thicker rope in the case of different diameters.

  1. Make a bight in the end of rope 1.
  2. Pass the running end of rope 2 through the bight.
  3. Pass the running end of rope 2 behind and around both sections of rope 1.
  4. Bring the running end of rope 2 across the front of the bight in rope 1 and tuck it under its own standing part.
  5. Tighten b holding the bight and pulling the standing part of rope 2.
Square knot.

Square Knot [1]

The square knot is an easy, general purpose bend. It works best when tied around something and the knot is pressed against the surface of the object. The ropes used in a square knot should be of the same diameter, and it should not be used to hold a heavy load.

  1. Hold a rope in each hand.
  2. Pass the right end over and under the rope in your left hand. The right rope is now on the left and the left is now on the right.
  3. Pass the rope the is now in your left hand over and under the rope that is now in your right hand.
  4. Tighten by pulling both running ends at the same time.

This can be remembered by "right over left, left over right." The ends of each rope will be on the same side of the knot.

There are several similar knots related to the square knot. The Granny Knot is tied by going right over left, right over left which results in a twist rather than the square shape. The Granny knot pulls apart much more easily than the square knot, but it works in a pinch for something unimportant. The Thief Knot looks almost identical to a square knot, except that the running ends will end on opposite sides of the knot. Again, this is less secure than a square knot, but it can be used to see if someone has untied your knot and inadvertently tied it back with a square knot.

Surgeon's Knot [1]

The Surgeon's knot is an improved square knot. The Surgeon's knot is used to tie sutures, and is particularly useful when tying small plastic lines like fishing line. To tie a surgeon's knot, tie a square knot, but in step 2 pass the right end over and under the left end twice instead of once.

Lashings

Example of square lashing. The fraps are clearly visible between the poles and around the wraps. Ideally, every lash in this image should be pulled as tight as possible.

Square Lashing [1]

Square lashing is used to bind together two poles that contact each other and cross at an angle between 45-90 degrees. The wrapping turns are at 90 degrees to the poles, thus the name square lashing.

  1. Place one pole on top of another pole at the desired angle.
  2. Tie a clove hitch around the bottom pole below the intersection.
  3. Make a wrap around both poles going from the clove hitch, over the top pole, under the bottom pole, back over the top pole on the opposite side, and under the bottom pole below the clove hitch.
  4. Repeat step 3 at least 3 times laying the rope outside of the previous wrap each time.
  5. Make at least 2 fraps around the wraps and pull extremely tight. These fraps go around the ropes, essentially in between the poles and are used to pull the wraps as tight as possible.
  6. Finish with a clove hitch around the top pole as tight as possible against the lashing.

Shear Lashing [1]

Shear lashing is useful for constructing the initial section of a triangle. It is constructed with two poles side by side which are lashed and then spread apart to form an angle. The bottom of the triangle can be attached with square lashing.

  1. Lay two poles side by side and tie a clove hitch to one of them.
  2. Wrap in a figure 8 pattern around both poles.
  3. Repeat several times. The stiffness of the angle is determined by how many wraps are made and how tight those wraps are.
  4. Make 2 tight fraps between the poles around the wraps to pull the wraps together.
  5. Finish with a clove hitch on the other pole as tight as possible against the lashing. Test that you can make the desired angle before tying and loosen or tighten the fraps and wraps as needed.
  6. Spread the ends of the poles.

Diagonal Lashing [1]

Diagonal lashing is used to bring poles that don't touch together, typically when adding supports onto an existing frame - for example, connecting the middle of an X of cross-beams onto a square frame. It is called diagonal lashing because the lashings are diagonal to the poles and make an X or + pattern depending on the direction of the poles. These instructions will assume you are connecting poles arranged as an X.

  1. Tie a timber hitch around both poles and pull it very snug.
  2. Make three tight wraps around both poles in the vertical direction.
  3. Make three tight wraps around both poles in the horizontal direction.
  4. Make two tight fraps between the poles to pull the wraps tight.
  5. Finish with a clove hitch on one of the poles as tight as possible against the lashing.

Tripod Lashing [1]

Tripod lashing is similar to shear lashing, but uses three poles to form a tripod rather than two poles to form part of a triangle. Tripod lashing is useful for hanging a pot over a fire.

  1. Lay three poles next to each other and ensure the bottom ends are lined up.
  2. Tie a clove hitch to one of the poles on the outside.
  3. Wrap the rope around the poles going over one, under the next, and around the outside poles. The wraps should be weaved through the poles.
  4. Repeat step 3 several times. The stiffness is determined by how many wraps are made and how tight those wraps are.
  5. Make two fraps around the wraps on both sides of the middle pole.
  6. Finish with a clove hitch on the other outside pole as tight as possible against the lashing. Test the positioning and spread of the tripod and tighten or loosen the lashing as needed before tying.

Round Lashing [1]

Round lashing is used to join two poles together to extend their length.

  1. Position the poles end to end with enough overlap to make a secure lashing. [1] The overlap depends on the size of the poles and strength required, but if you want to build a giant tower it should probably be at least a foot or two.[2]
  2. Tie both poles together with a clove hitch close to the end of one of the poles. [1]
  3. Make many, very tight wraps around the poles, laying each wrap next to the last as close as possible. These wraps need to be as tight as you can possibly make them.
  4. Finish with another tight clove hitch around both poles.
  5. Make a second round lashing close to the end of the other pole to prevent bending. You should have two round lashings on the overlap between the poles.

Floor Lashing

Floor lashings are used to make surfaces like tabletops, raft decks, walkways, and obviously floors. Floor lashings are made from two spars and as many floor poles as needed to fill the platform. [1]

  1. Lay the floor spars parallel to each other and the desired distance apart.
  2. Lay the floor poles perpendicular on top of the spars and line them up side by side.
  3. Tie a clove hitch around one of the spars.
  4. Wrap the running end from the outside of the spar up and over the first floor pole then down and back to the inside of the spar. [3]
  5. Wrap the running end around the spar and back up on the outside around the second floor pole. Repeat this wrapping up from the outside and down to the inside for each floor pole. [3]
  6. Finish with a clove hitch as close to the final floor pole as possible.
  7. Repeat the lashing for the opposite side.

References

  1. ↑ 1.00 1.01 1.02 1.03 1.04 1.05 1.06 1.07 1.08 1.09 1.10 1.11 1.12 1.13 1.14 1.15 1.16 1.17 1.18 1.19 1.20 1.21 1.22 1.23 1.24 1.25 1.26 1.27 Boy Scout Handbook, 13th edition, pages 364-378 https://archive.org/details/boy-scout-handbook/page/364/mode/2up
  2. ↑ I made this up, but it seems right. Do not hold me liable for any giant tower injuries or accidents that may occur
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 Floor Lashing, SmallfryGM. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VLU7j0qlmk
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